Sew Stretch & Jersey NZ

Choose the job before the supplies

Sew a jersey garment

Start with a needle suited to the knit, thread and a seam that stretches enough for the pattern. A conventional sewing machine can handle many suitable knit projects.

Build my starting setup →

Hem a T-shirt

Compare a stretch twin needle on a compatible sewing machine with a dedicated coverstitch finish. Test the actual folded hem before sewing the garment.

Choose my hem method →

Make more stretchwear

If you regularly sew jersey, kids’ clothing or activewear, compare a machine devoted to hemming and topstitching alongside your existing setup.

Explore the upgrade →

01 · Start with the machine you have

Sew stretch fabric without an overlocker

Match the method to the fabric and the stretch your seam needs. Follow your machine’s guidance for zigzag or stretch stitches with suitable thread, or explore Maraflex for flexible straight-stitch seams on suitable light to medium-weight fabrics.

Elastic sewing thread · 150m per spool

Gütermann Maraflex

Use Maraflex in both the needle and bobbin for its intended seam elasticity. Gütermann specifies Jersey, Stretch or Super Stretch needles in NM 70–80. Test your thread, needle, tension and fabric layers together.

Black (000) →Blue Steel Grey (064) →Royal Blue (315) →Yellow (325) →Brown (446) →Taupe (727) →White (800) →Dark Navy Blue (665) →Jeans Gold (968) →

View current availability. All nine colours are featured; some shades may be out of stock. One spool per selection; use it to wind a compatible bobbin as well as for the top thread. Manufacturer guidance.

Schmetz Jersey ballpoint sewing machine needle pack with enlarged needle illustration

Everyday knitted fabrics

Jersey Ballpoint needles

For suitable cotton jersey and knitwear. The rounded point works between knit loops. Choose the size for your fabric and thread.

The 80/12 option below sits within Maraflex’s recommended NM 70–80 range.

View Jersey 80/12

Schmetz Stretch sewing machine needle pack with enlarged needle illustration

More elastic knitted fabrics

Stretch needles

A specialised scarf and eye area support stitch formation on elastic knits. Compare this option for suitable elastane blends or skipped-stitch problems.

The 75/11 option below sits within Maraflex’s recommended size range.

View Stretch 75/11

Check the whole setup: these single needles use the domestic 130/705 family. Confirm compatibility in your manual. A different needle alone will not make an ordinary straight seam stretchy. For high-stretch leggings, swimwear or heavily loaded seams, sample the full fabric-and-elastic construction before committing.

02 · Give the hem some attention

Two useful upgrades for a T-shirt hem

Schmetz Stretch twin sewing machine needle in retail packaging

Two rows on a compatible sewing machine

SCHMETZ Stretch Twin 4.0/75

One twin-needle unit creates parallel rows on suitable elastic knits. Your machine must support twin-needle sewing and 4mm spacing.

Use two top thread paths and the threading, foot, plate and stitch settings permitted by the manual. Hand-thread the needles and check clearance with the handwheel before sewing.

Shop the Stretch Twin

Sewable support for suitable hems

HeatnBond Soft Stretch Lite

A lightweight double-sided iron-on adhesive tape, 15.9mm × 9.1m, designed for stretch fabrics. Fuse a suitable folded hem in place, then sew.

Pretest the bond and check that your fabric tolerates the prescribed heat. Follow the packet’s pressing and care directions. This is the sewable Lite version.

Shop Soft Stretch Lite

A twin needle creates a different stitch structure from a coverstitch machine; check the finished hem’s stretch and recovery. For tape application, see Therm O Web’s directions.

03 · A dedicated machine for the finishing work

Ready for coverstitch?

These machines make coverstitch hems and chainstitch seams. The Brother and Janome also offer top-cover stitching for decorative thread coverage on the fabric’s face. Compare the finish you want, threading and how your own fabric feeds.

Coverstitch + top cover

Brother CV3550

Explore double-sided top-cover finishes as well as conventional coverstitch and chainstitch. Differential feed and a free arm help you work on garment hems.

View Brother CV3550

Coverstitch + chainstitch

Juki MCS-1500

A dedicated machine for narrow, wide and triple coverstitch, with differential feed and adjustable presser-foot pressure. Choose it for those finishes; it does not add top-cover thread.

View Juki MCS-1500

Top cover + threading features

Janome CoverPro 3000

Built-in top-cover guide, needle threader and Fine Mode for lightweight fabrics. Its free arm gives access to tubular garment areas.

View Janome CoverPro 3000

Keep the machine roles clear: these dedicated coverstitch models do not trim and overlock raw edges. Keep your sewing machine for general construction and compare an overlocker for edge finishing. Prices, availability and included accessories are shown on each listing.

Juki MCS series coverstitch hem guide 401-77371 with mounting screws

Already using a Juki MCS?

The optional Juki 40177371 hem guide helps align a folded edge. This listing specifies MCS-1500 and MCS-1700QVP compatibility; it is not a universal attachment for the Brother or Janome models above.

View the Juki hem guide

Compare the full coverstitch and combination-machine range →

Already own an overlocker or coverstitch machine?

Choose supplies for the exact machine and stitch. Our Overlocker Thread Essentials guide covers Aerolock, Toldi-Lock, Astra and Aeroflock, plus needle-system checks.

Count the required needle and looper threads before ordering cones. Follow the manual’s needle designation: HA×1 SP, EL×705 and ordinary domestic needles are not automatically interchangeable. The stretch twin needle above is for a compatible conventional sewing machine.

Test one small sample before the whole garment

Match the project

Use the same fabric, number of layers, elastic and folded hem as the finished garment. Check the pattern’s required stretch and recovery.

Let the fabric feed

Support its weight and avoid pulling it through the machine. Adjust only the controls your manual permits, one change at a time.

Check both sides

Look for skipped stitches, holes, puckering or tunnelling. Gently stretch the sample to the movement it needs in wear, then check recovery.

Stretch and jersey sewing questions

Do I need an overlocker to sew jersey?

Not for every project. Many suitable jersey garments can be made using a conventional machine with the right needle, thread and stretch-capable seam. An overlocker adds fast edge trimming and finishing. Follow the pattern and test the seam first.

Jersey or Stretch: which needle should I buy?

Jersey Ballpoint is a starting point for many ordinary knits. Stretch needles add specialised stitch-forming geometry for more elastic fabrics. Choose the machine-compatible system and a size suited to the material and thread. For Maraflex, stay within its recommended NM 70–80 range.

Can I hem a T-shirt without a coverstitch machine?

Yes, on suitable fabric. Compare a stretch-capable stitch supported by your sewing machine or a stretch twin needle if your machine supports it. A twin-needle hem is not identical to coverstitch; test the stretch you need before sewing.

Why does my stretch hem go wavy or tunnel?

Fabric handling, foot pressure, tension and stitch settings can all contribute. Stop pulling the fabric, check the manual and sample adjustments. For suitable heat-tolerant hems, test sewable Soft Stretch Lite. On an overlocker or coverstitch machine, consult the differential-feed guidance for that model.

Do I buy every product on this page as one kit?

No. These are separately sold choices for different methods. Start with the thread and compatible needle you need; add hem support or a machine only where it suits your project. Check colour, size, attachment fit and current availability on each product page.