Sewing Thread Guide NZ: Choose by Fabric, Stitch & Project
Direct Sewing · The maker’s journal
The right thread.
A better seam.
Make sense of cotton, polyester, thread numbers and spool sizes—with practical choices for the projects on your sewing table.
A useful starting point
Which sewing thread is right for your project?
For everyday garment sewing and repairs, start with a good all-purpose polyester thread. For cotton patchwork and subtle quilting, consider a fine 100% cotton thread such as Aurifil 50wt. For overlocking, choose a thread suited to its position in the machine; a fluffy looper thread does a different job from a regular needle thread.
Choose the job first, then the fibre, thickness, colour and spool size. A thread can be excellent quality and still be the wrong choice for a particular seam. This guide connects those choices to specific threads available from Direct Sewing in New Zealand.
Sewing & repairs
Mara 100 or Sew-All are useful starting points for many everyday seams. Match the needle and stitch to the fabric.
Shop everyday thread →Patchwork & quilts
Choose a fine thread for piecing; decide how visible you want the quilting to be.
Compare quilting choices →Stretch & overlocking
Check whether you need a needle thread, a soft looper thread or a specialist elastic sewing thread.
Find your stretch setup →A quick thread guide by sewing project
| Your project | A useful starting point | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Woven clothes, repairs & everyday seams | Gütermann Mara 100 or Gütermann Sew-All. | Fabric weight, compatible needle and a balanced sample seam. |
| Cotton patchwork & subtle quilting | Aurifil 50wt cotton. | Piecing accuracy, quilting appearance and the needle recommended for your machine. |
| Cotton-look seams with a polyester core | AMANN Rasant 120. | It is a cotton-wrapped polyester thread—not a 100% cotton substitute. |
| General overlocking | Madeira Aerolock 125 or Coats Astra 120. | Your manual’s threading arrangement, cone support and needle system. |
| Soft, fuller overlocker loopers | Madeira Aeroflock. | Use in suitable looper positions, with a regular compatible needle thread and tested tensions. |
| Elastic straight seams | Gütermann Maraflex. | Follow the Maraflex needle-and-bobbin setup and test stretch recovery. |
| More visible topstitching | Mara 70 or Mara 50. | Needle clearance, machine capability and how much stitch definition you want. |
| Machine embroidery | Madeira Polyneon 40. | The design’s intended thread weight, bobbin thread and stabiliser. |
One number does not describe every thread. “Mara 100”, “Aurifil 50wt” and “Polyneon 40” use product-specific sizing conventions. Do not compare them as though the numbers share one scale. See the explanation below before choosing by number alone.
Everyday sewing: choose a useful spool before a large collection
For a new sewing project, buy the colour and type you need rather than a collection of shades you may never use. Neutral colours are useful, but a closely matched visible hem or repair can matter more than a bargain multipack.
Mara 100 makes sense when you will use a shade repeatedly; Sew-All’s smaller spools are convenient for one-off colours and occasional repairs. Neither removes the need to choose the right needle or use a stitch that suits the fabric.
Everyday sewing · 1,000m
Gütermann Mara 100
A 1,000m spool of fine polyester thread for many everyday construction seams. It is Tex 30; Gütermann gives NM 70–90 as its needle-size range, with the final choice depending on the fabric and machine.
NZD $9.80Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Choose a Mara 100 colour
Small useful spool · 100m
Gütermann Sew-All
A 100m spool for everyday sewing and repairs, with white and cream shades grouped for easier matching. Choose the shade number that suits your fabric; other colour groups are linked below.
NZD $4.90Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Choose white & cream shades
Poly-cotton construction · 1,000m
AMANN Rasant 120
A polyester core with a cotton covering, supplied here on 1,000m spools. Consider it when you want this blended construction and a more cotton-like surface for suitable sewing projects.
NZD $8.99Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
View these Rasant shadesNeed a different shade? Browse all Sew-All 100m colour groups. For colours you use more often, compare Sew-All 500m spools. Explore the full Rasant 120 range for the other colour groups. The names matter: Rasant is not listed here as pure cotton because AMANN specifies a polyester/cotton corespun construction.
Mara specifications are explained in Gütermann’s thread guide. Our Mara 100, 70 and 50 guide goes deeper into choosing within that range.
Cotton thread for patchwork and quilting
Piecing and quilting ask different things of the thread. Piecing joins the fabric shapes; you generally want the seam to sit neatly and your finished block to match the pattern’s measurements. Quilting stitches through the layered quilt, so the thread’s visibility becomes part of the design.
Aurifil’s 50wt cotton is a fine option for piecing and a subtle quilted finish. If you want bold decorative lines, choose a thread intended to create that effect and check the matching needle and machine setup. Thicker thread is not automatically better quilting thread.
Cotton piecing & quilting
Aurifil 50wt solids
A 1,300m spool of 100% cotton thread. Choose a solid shade to blend into patchwork or make a controlled contrast across a quilt. Useful for fine piecing and understated quilting.
NZD $23.90Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Choose an Aurifil solid
Colour-changing detail
Aurifil 50wt variegated
The colour changes along the thread, adding variation to visible quilting. Test a small stitched area across your fabric colours before choosing it for a whole quilt.
NZD $23.90Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Explore variegated cottonAurifil’s 50wt guidance identifies piecing and subtle quilting among its uses. For choosing a range, browse our 100% cotton sewing and quilting threads. Keep fibre content separate from marketing names: an all-purpose thread that sews cotton fabric is not necessarily made from cotton.
Stretch sewing: three different solutions
A stretchy fabric needs a seam that can move with it. Ordinary all-purpose polyester used with an appropriate zigzag or stretch stitch can be a practical approach on a sewing machine. For an overlocker or a specialist elastic straight stitch, choose the thread for that particular system.
Regular overlocking thread
Madeira Aerolock 125
A smooth 100% polyester corespun thread on a 2,500m spool. A useful option for general overlocking and suitable sewing applications, following the machine’s threading and tension instructions.
NZD $9.90Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Shop Aerolock colours
Soft, fuller loopers
Madeira Aeroflock
A textured polyester looper thread on a 1,000m spool. Its soft, fuller character suits appropriate overlocked seams where coverage and feel matter. Check suitable looper use in your manual.
NZD $9.90Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Shop Aeroflock colours
Elastic straight stitching
Gütermann Maraflex
A specialist elastic PBT thread for suitable straight seams in stretch fabrics. Use it in both the needle and bobbin, with low tension and the manufacturer’s recommended needle setup.
From NZD $6.50Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Choose Maraflex threadAerolock and Aeroflock are not interchangeable names
Madeira describes Aerolock as polyester corespun thread; Aeroflock is textured polyester intended as a soft looper thread. Choose according to the thread’s position in the machine, not just its colour.
Use a deliberate setup for Maraflex
Gütermann recommends a jersey, stretch or super-stretch needle in NM 70–80 and Maraflex in both needle and bobbin. Its guidance includes low thread tension and about four stitches per centimetre. Make a sample in the actual fabric and stretch it as the finished seam will be used. Read the manufacturer’s Maraflex guidance.
Maraflex is not the thick elastic used for shirring. For regular overlocker cones, also compare Coats Astra 120 5,000m and browse overlocker thread and essentials. Check how many thread positions your chosen stitch uses before ordering matching spools.
Topstitching and embroidery: choose the finish you want
A visible seam has two jobs: it needs to suit the construction, and it needs to look right. Try a line of stitching on the actual fabric before committing to the whole project. The same colour can look quite different in a fine seam and a pronounced topstitched line.
Defined stitching · 700m
Mara 70 · Tex 40
A step towards more defined stitching within the Mara range. Consider it for suitable bag panels and visible seams when Mara 100 looks too fine; confirm the machine and needle can handle it.
NZD $9.99Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
View Mara 70
Bolder topstitching · 500m
Mara 50 · Tex 60
A bolder option for suitable topstitching. The heavier thread needs an appropriate needle and a successful sample; it does not increase the thickness of material your machine can sew.
NZD $9.99Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
View Mara 50
Machine embroidery · 1,000m
Madeira Polyneon 40
A polyester machine-embroidery thread for colour and sheen in stitched designs. Choose with the design, stabiliser and bobbin setup in mind rather than treating it as an everyday construction thread.
NZD $8.99Price checked 29 Oct 2026 · view current options
Choose Polyneon coloursRead the Polyneon guide for a closer look at the embroidery range. Pair the thread decision with our fabric-by-fabric stabiliser guide so the supporting materials suit the design as well.
Thread numbers, spool lengths and needle sizes
Compare like with like
Tex is a linear-density measure: a higher Tex number means more mass per unit length. In the Mara products above, Tex 30, 40 and 60 therefore progress towards heavier thread. A “wt” label often works in the opposite direction within a range, while ticket numbers need the manufacturer’s own comparison. Fibre and construction also affect how a thread behaves. Coats’ thread-numbering guide explains the different measurement systems.
Spool length is another separate number: 100m or 1,000m tells you how much thread is supplied, not how fine or strong it is. Check the fibre, thread designation and recommended needle rather than judging by the largest printed number.
Match the needle to both fabric and thread
The needle needs a point suited to the fabric and enough clearance for the thread to pass smoothly. A fine needle with an unsuitable heavy thread can create problems; making the needle larger without considering delicate fabric can create others. Check the machine’s needle system and permitted sizes first, then sew a sample.
For compatible domestic machines, Schmetz Universal 130/705 H needles are one everyday option for appropriate fabrics. Stretch, fine tightly woven and heavy materials may call for a specialist needle. SCHMETZ’s needle guide explains choosing the type for the fabric and the size for the thread.
Small spool or large cone?
Buy a smaller spool for an occasional shade; consider a larger supply for colours you use repeatedly. A large cone must feed correctly into your machine. Use a compatible stand or spool arrangement as instructed, keeping the thread path clear rather than balancing a cone in an unsuitable position.
A five-minute sample can save a whole seam
- Use the real layers. Include the lining, interfacing or seam crossing the finished item will contain.
- Fit a suitable fresh needle. Check its system, type, size and installation against the machine manual.
- Thread carefully. Follow the manual for the top thread and bobbin, including the bobbin’s direction. Keep thread clear of spool notches and obstructions.
- Sew and inspect both sides. Look for balanced stitches, puckering, skipped stitches and the appearance of any topstitching.
- Test the seam’s job. Open a pressed woven seam, gently stretch a knit seam or examine the quilting over a layered sample. Adjust one thing at a time.
If the thread breaks or the stitches look wrong
Thread is only one possible cause. Start with rethreading, a correctly fitted needle, the bobbin setup and any obvious snag in the thread path. A needle that is worn or too small, incorrect threading and excessive tension can all contribute to problems. SCHMETZ’s troubleshooting guide lists these common causes.
If the problem persists with a known-good thread and suitable needle, consult the machine manual or seek help. Increasing tension repeatedly or buying a stronger thread may leave the real issue unresolved.
Sewing thread FAQs
What is the best all-purpose sewing thread for beginners?
A quality all-purpose polyester such as Gütermann Sew-All or Mara 100 is a useful starting point for many everyday projects. Choose a suitable needle and stitch for the fabric, then test the seam. There is no single thread for every material and technique.
Is Rasant 120 cotton thread?
Rasant 120 is a polyester/cotton corespun thread: a polyester core with a cotton covering. If your project specifically calls for 100% cotton, choose a product labelled 100% cotton, such as the Aurifil range linked above.
Can I use the same thread in the top and bobbin?
For many everyday sewing seams, yes, subject to your machine and thread instructions. Embroidery, some topstitching and specialist techniques may use a different bobbin thread. Maraflex specifically calls for Maraflex in both needle and bobbin.
Does stretch fabric need elastic thread?
Not always. A suitable stretch stitch or zigzag with appropriate ordinary sewing thread can allow the seam to move. Maraflex offers a specialist elastic straight-stitch approach; textured looper threads serve a different role in overlocking.
Is embroidery thread the same as sewing thread?
No. They are selected for different purposes and finishes. Choose an embroidery thread to suit the stitched design and machine setup, and a construction thread suited to the seam and fabric.
How do I choose a thread colour online?
Use the shade code and product colour options, recognising that screens alter colours. For exact matching, compare a physical thread sample or colour card with the fabric. For patterned fabric, test a short length against the areas where the seam will show.
Choose for the seam you want to sew.
Start with the project, match the needle and make a sample. Then build a small, useful thread collection in the colours you reach for most.
Prices are in NZD. Product pages show the current shades, availability and price; each spool or cone is sold in the option selected.