Complete Guide to Coats Thread in NZ: Every Type and What It Is Used For

Colourful Coats sewing thread on a sewing table with fabric, measuring tape and dressmaking shears

September 02, 2026

Complete Guide to Coats Thread in NZ: Every Type and What It Is Used For

Choosing sewing thread by colour alone is a little like choosing a sewing machine by its paintwork. Colour matters, but it tells you almost nothing about the strength, construction, thickness, stretch, abrasion resistance, weather resistance or equipment the thread requires.

The current Coats thread range at Direct Sewing covers everything from fine garment seams and overlocking to jeans topstitching, blind hemming, upholstery, leatherwork, marine covers, heavy industrial sewing, hand lacing and flame-resistant protective applications. Those jobs are far too different for one “all-purpose” thread to handle well.

This in-depth New Zealand guide features every Coats thread type currently shown in the collection. It explains what each one is made from, where it fits, what it is commonly used for and when you should choose a different thread instead.

How to use this Coats thread guide

Start with the finished product and the conditions the seam must survive. Then consider the fabric, number of layers, required stitch appearance and machine capacity. Only after those decisions should you choose the colour.

The sizes below use the Ticket and Tex references shown on the Direct Sewing product pages. Within comparable thread families, a lower Ticket number generally means a heavier thread, while a higher Tex number means a heavier thread. Ticket 120 garment thread is therefore much finer than Ticket 25 marine thread, even though 120 is the larger number.

Important: the suggested uses in this guide are starting points, not engineered seam specifications. Safety-critical, load-bearing, protective or regulated products require a complete, professionally validated specification covering the thread, fabric, needle, stitch, seam construction and manufacturing process.

01GarmentFine construction, overlocking, denim and blind hems
02UpholsteryPolished corespun and abrasion-resistant bonded nylon
03OutdoorUV-resistant bonded polyester for marine and canvas work
04Hand sewingWaxed braid for leathercraft, lacing and cord work
05SpecialistMeta-aramid thread for specified protective applications

The complete Coats thread range at a glance

Coats thread Construction and size Typical uses Format
Astra 120 Staple spun polyester; Ticket 120/Tex 27 Everyday garments, alterations, knitwear, workwear and compatible overlocking 5000m cone
EcoVerde Astra 120 100% recycled staple spun polyester; Ticket 120/Tex 27 General apparel and overlocking where recycled content is preferred 5000m cone
Moon 120 Lubricated staple spun polyester; Ticket 120/Tex 27 Economical everyday sewing, alterations and overlocking in core colours 5000m cone
Dual Duty 120 Polyester filament core with cotton wrap; Ticket 120/Tex 24 Premium garment seams, overlocking, uniforms, cottons and suitable soft furnishings 5000m cone
Astra 75 Staple spun polyester; Ticket 75/Tex 40 Defined garment seams, medium-weight topstitching, jackets and workwear 5000m cone
Astra 30 Staple spun polyester; Ticket 30/Tex 80 Jeans, denim, curtains, repairs and prominent topstitching 2000m cone
Gral 180 Fine continuous-filament polyester; Ticket 180 Blind hemming where a fine, strong and unobtrusive thread is required 15,000m cone
Terko Satin 36 Polyester core, cotton wrap and glacé finish; Ticket 36/Tex 80 Upholstery, bags, leather goods, luggage and polished visible seams 2500m cone
Terko Satin 25 Polyester core, cotton wrap and glacé finish; Ticket 25/Tex 105 Heavier upholstery, leather, automotive interiors and bold decorative seams 2500m cone
Terko Satin 12 Extra-heavy polyester core and cotton wrap; Ticket 12/Tex 210 Carpet overlocking, heavy upholstery, leatherwork and extra-bold industrial seams 2500m cone
Nylbond 60 Bonded continuous-filament Nylon 6.6; Ticket 60/Tex 45 Leather goods, footwear, luggage, upholstery and high-wear products 4500m cone
Nylbond 40 Heavier bonded continuous-filament Nylon 6.6; Ticket 40/Tex 70 Heavier leather, footwear, bags, automotive interiors and demanding upholstery 3000m cone
Dabond V69 Bonded continuous-filament polyester; Ticket 30/Tex 80 Outdoor furniture, canvas, bags, upholstery and technical products 3000m cone
Dabond V92 Bonded continuous-filament polyester; Ticket 25/Tex 105 Boat covers, sails, awnings, canvas, squabs and heavy upholstery 2000m cone
Dabond Outdoor V92 Outdoor-focused bonded polyester; Ticket 25/Tex 105 Marine covers, canopies, awnings and exposed outdoor upholstery 2000m cone
Dabond V138 Heavy bonded polyester; Ticket 18/Tex 150 Sails, straps, tie-downs, heavy canvas, awnings and heavy upholstery 1500m cone
Dabond Outdoor V138 Heavy outdoor-focused bonded polyester; Ticket 18/Tex 150 Sails, shade products, covers, marine seating and substantial exposed seams 1500m cone
Dabond V207 Very heavy bonded polyester; Ticket 12/Tex 240 Specialist heavy upholstery, sports and technical sewing to an approved specification 2000m cone
Classic 1.0mm High-tenacity waxed polyester braid Leather hand sewing, lacing, saddlery, upholstery and necklace cord 500m roll
Classic 1.2mm Heavy waxed polyester braid Bold hand seams, firm lacing, footwear, leathercraft and substantial cord work 350m roll
Classic 1.6mm Extra-heavy waxed polyester braid Pronounced leather lacing, saddlery, footwear and decorative hand construction 350m roll
Classic 1.8mm Largest waxed polyester braid in the current range Maximum-impact lacing and the boldest decorative hand-sewn work 300m roll
Firefly 50 100% spun meta-aramid; Ticket 50 Specified flame-resistant protective wear, industrial gloves, insulation and filtration 2500m cone

Before comparing products: five thread constructions explained

Staple spun polyester

Short polyester fibres are spun together to create a practical thread with a soft, textile-like surface. It is less glossy than continuous-filament thread and is widely used for garment seams. Astra, EcoVerde Astra and Moon all sit in this category. They are excellent apparel threads, but they are not substitutes for bonded leather, upholstery or marine thread.

Polyester-core, cotton-wrapped thread

A strong continuous polyester filament forms the centre, while cotton fibres wrap the outside. Dual Duty uses this structure to combine core strength with a soft, low-lustre surface. Terko Satin uses a heavier version with a polished glacé finish for upholstery, leather and visible industrial seams. The cotton wrap can help protect the core from needle heat and can swell around needle holes when wet, although it does not make a seam waterproof.

Bonded continuous-filament nylon

Nylbond is made from high-tenacity continuous-filament Nylon 6.6. Bonding helps keep the plies together during sewing and trimming, while nylon contributes abrasion resistance, resilience and controlled stretch. It suits high-wear indoor and sheltered products, but exposed marine work is generally better matched to a purpose-specific bonded polyester such as Dabond.

Bonded continuous-filament polyester

Dabond uses twisted continuous-filament polyester with a bonded, lubricated finish. The bond helps control the plies, while polyester is well suited to UV-exposed, mildew-prone and outdoor conditions. Different V sizes create very different seam weights, from the relatively balanced V69 to the specialist V207.

Waxed polyester braid

Coats Classic is a compact braid, not ordinary machine thread. The wax helps it pass through thick material and reduces fraying during hand work. Its low working stretch supports tight seams and secure knots. The four diameters should be chosen by hole size, desired visual weight and the scale of the finished piece.

Garment, overlocking and topstitch threads

Coats Astra 120: the versatile everyday apparel thread

Astra 120 is the broad-use starting point for many garment projects. It is a fine Ticket 120/Tex 27 staple spun polyester thread supplied on a 5000m cone. Its textile-like surface creates neat seams without the shine or bulk of heavier continuous-filament thread.

Best used for: shirts, blouses, dresses, knitwear, childrenswear, underwear, jackets, light workwear, alterations and suitable lockstitch, overlock and coverseam operations.

Why choose it: it combines a fine seam profile with a broad colour selection, making it useful when the colour match matters as much as dependable production sewing.

Machine guidance: Direct Sewing lists a metric 75–90 needle range as a starting point. A domestic machine may use this thread if it can feed correctly from a large cone; a separate cone stand may be required.

Do not choose Astra 120 for: prominent denim topstitching, heavy upholstery, leather construction or exposed marine seams.

Coats EcoVerde Astra 120: recycled polyester for general apparel

EcoVerde Astra 120 occupies the same fine Ticket 120/Tex 27 general-sewing position as conventional Astra, but it is made from 100% recycled staple spun polyester. The current listing describes it as GRS certified and OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 Product Class I certified.

Best used for: woven garments, knitwear, shirts, dresses, jackets, childrenswear, workwear, underwear, alterations and compatible overlocking where a recycled-material thread is desired.

Why choose it: it allows makers and production rooms to specify recycled polyester without moving to a different general-apparel thread weight.

Do not choose it simply because the project is outdoors: recycled polyester content does not give it the bonded construction, heavy size or specialist UV performance of Dabond.

Coats Moon 120: economical sewing and overlocking

Moon 120 is a lubricated 100% staple spun polyester thread in Ticket 120/Tex 27. It is supplied on a 5000m cone in a smaller range of practical workroom colours.

Best used for: everyday garment construction, alterations, shirts, dresses, underwear, childrenswear, knitwear, light workwear, overlocking and production work using core colours.

Why choose it: Moon is the value-focused workroom option when you need plenty of reliable fine thread but do not need Astra's wider colour range.

Machine guidance: the current page lists metric 70–80 as a technical starting guide. Choose the needle point for the fabric and test the looper or bobbin tension before production.

Do not choose Moon for: bonded upholstery, leather or marine work. It is economical garment thread, not a lighter version of industrial bonded thread.

Coats Dual Duty 120: a strong core with a natural cotton surface

Dual Duty 120 is a fine Ticket 120/Tex 24 corespun thread. A high-tenacity polyester filament forms the centre, while long-staple cotton wraps the outside. This produces a low-lustre, textile-like surface with more core strength than an ordinary cotton-spun thread.

Best used for: premium garment construction, shirts, cotton garments, uniforms, fine woven fabrics, compatible overlocking and coverseam work, workwear and suitable indoor soft furnishings such as pillowcases and towels.

Why choose it: choose Dual Duty when you want the strength and controlled elongation of a polyester core with the softer appearance and needle-heat protection of a cotton wrap.

Machine guidance: the current listing recommends metric 75–90 needles. It can suit compatible lockstitch, overlock, coverseam, buttonhole and button-sew operations.

Do not confuse it with Terko Satin: both are poly-cotton corespun threads, but Dual Duty 120 is a fine garment size. Terko Satin is much heavier and polished for industrial upholstery and leather applications.

Coats Astra 75: medium-weight garment seams and visible detail

Astra 75 fills the gap between fine Astra 120 and heavy Astra 30. Its Ticket 75/Tex 40 size adds definition without producing the very bold stitch line associated with jeans thread.

Best used for: jackets, uniforms, workwear, alterations, medium-weight garment seams, hems, bags made from suitable apparel materials and restrained decorative topstitching.

Why choose it: it is the useful “middle weight” when ordinary garment thread looks too fine but Ticket 30 would be too dominant.

Machine guidance: Direct Sewing lists metric 90–110. Some domestic machines can sew Tex 40, but the manual, needle system, cone feeding and tension range should be checked first.

Do not choose it for: demanding leather, high-stress upholstery or exposed marine work; it remains a staple spun garment thread.

Coats Astra 30: jeans and prominent topstitching

Astra 30 is a much heavier Ticket 30/Tex 80 staple spun polyester thread. It creates a deliberate stitch line and is supplied on a 2000m cone.

Best used for: jeans, denim, workwear, jackets, curtains, repairs, hems and decorative topstitching where the thread should form a visible part of the design.

Why choose it: it provides the textile-like finish of spun polyester with enough body to remain visible against denim and other medium-heavy fabrics.

Machine guidance: the listed metric 110–130 needle range is outside the capacity of some domestic machines. Confirm that the needle system, tension range and hook can accommodate Tex 80 before ordering.

Do not mistake it for bonded Tex 80: Astra 30 and Dabond V69 share a Tex 80 reference, but their constructions and intended environments are different. Astra 30 is an apparel and topstitch thread; Dabond V69 is bonded polyester for demanding outdoor, upholstery and technical applications.

Coats Gral 180: fine blind-hemming thread

Gral 180 is a fine continuous-filament polyester thread supplied on a large 15,000m cone. Blind hemming needs a thread that is fine enough to remain unobtrusive but strong and consistent enough to form reliable stitches.

Best used for: blind-hemming operations in tailored garments, trousers, skirts, dresses, curtains and other products made on a compatible blind hem machine.

Why choose it: the continuous-filament construction provides strength at a very fine size, helping minimise visible bulk at the hem.

Machine guidance: this is a specialist blind-hemming product, not a general replacement for ordinary construction thread. Confirm the machine, needle and stitch setup intended for the garment.

Astra thread weights compared

Astra size Relative weight Choose it when
Astra 120 / Tex 27 Fine You want neat, unobtrusive everyday garment seams
Astra 75 / Tex 40 Medium You want more seam definition without a heavy jeans-thread appearance
Astra 30 / Tex 80 Heavy apparel You want a clearly visible jeans or decorative topstitch

Upholstery, leather, luggage and high-wear threads

What makes Coats Terko Satin different?

Terko Satin combines a continuous-filament polyester core, a cotton outer wrap and a polished glacé finish. The core provides strength, the cotton surface protects the core from needle heat and creates a familiar textile character, and the glacé finish binds surface fibres while adding lustre and abrasion resistance.

The cotton wrap can swell around needle holes when wet, which may help reduce leakage in a correctly designed seam. That behaviour does not make the finished seam waterproof. Fabric coating, needle size, stitch construction, tension and seam sealing still matter.

Coats Terko Satin 36: versatile upholstery and decorative construction

Terko Satin 36 is Ticket 36/Tex 80 and is the lightest of the three current Terko Satin sizes. It creates a substantial but manageable polished seam.

Best used for: furniture and automotive upholstery, bags, luggage, handbags, fashion accessories, compatible leather goods, equestrian products and sporting goods.

Why choose it: choose Ticket 36 when you want Terko Satin's corespun strength and lustre without the bulk of Ticket 25 or Ticket 12.

Machine guidance: the listed starting range is metric 110–130. Use a compatible industrial plain-sew, compound-feed or walking-foot machine approved for Tex 80 thread.

Coats Terko Satin 25: heavier upholstery and bolder seams

Terko Satin 25 is Ticket 25/Tex 105. It retains the same polyester-core, cotton-wrap and glacé-finish construction while adding more seam body and strength.

Best used for: heavier furniture and automotive upholstery, luggage, leather goods, handbags, saddles, bridles, sporting goods and decorative seams that need stronger visual definition.

Why choose it: it is the step up from Ticket 36 when the material and seam design need a heavier, more visible thread.

Machine guidance: the current listing recommends metric 120–140. Confirm that the machine can feed and tension Tex 105 corespun thread.

Coats Terko Satin 12: extra-heavy polished industrial thread

Terko Satin 12 is an extra-heavy Ticket 12/Tex 210 thread. Its exceptionally bold appearance makes it a specialist choice rather than a general upholstery default.

Best used for: compatible carpet overlocking, heavy upholstery, leatherwork, coarse decorative construction and heavy industrial products where a large, polished stitch is part of the required result.

Why choose it: choose Ticket 12 only when the material, seam design and capable industrial equipment genuinely call for this much thread body.

Machine guidance: Direct Sewing lists metric 130–160. A domestic machine or ordinary light industrial machine should not be assumed to accept Tex 210.

Terko Satin sizes compared

Size Seam character Typical starting point
Ticket 36 / Tex 80 Substantial and polished General industrial upholstery, bags and compatible leather goods
Ticket 25 / Tex 105 Heavier and bolder Heavy upholstery, automotive interiors and defined leather seams
Ticket 12 / Tex 210 Extra-heavy and highly visible Carpet overlocking and specialist heavy industrial work

Coats Nylbond 60: abrasion-resistant bonded nylon

Nylbond 60 is Ticket 60/Tex 45 bonded continuous-filament Nylon 6.6. The bonded plies resist untwisting and flaking, while the nylon construction provides resilience and abrasion resistance in products that face rubbing, flexing and repeated handling.

Best used for: bags, handbags, belts, leather accessories, sports and lifestyle footwear, furniture upholstery, automotive interiors, luggage, backpacks, golf bags, sports equipment and selected high-abrasion denim operations.

Why choose it: it offers a finer seam profile and more thread per cone than Nylbond 40 while delivering far more abrasion resistance than ordinary apparel thread.

Machine guidance: the listed needle range is metric 90–110. Use an industrial machine set up for bonded nylon and choose the needle point for the material.

Coats Nylbond 40: a heavier bonded nylon seam

Nylbond 40 is the heavier Ticket 40/Tex 70 option. It produces a bolder seam and is intended for demanding products where Nylbond 60 does not provide enough visual weight or strength.

Best used for: heavier leather goods, footwear, furniture upholstery, automotive interiors, luggage, backpacks, belts, sports equipment and hard-working sewn products.

Why choose it: select Nylbond 40 when the seam specification calls for more substance and strength than Ticket 60.

Machine guidance: Direct Sewing lists metric 100–120. Confirm hook clearance, thread path, tension capacity, feed system and stitch length on the actual material.

Nylbond 40 versus Nylbond 60: both use bonded Nylon 6.6. Ticket 60/Tex 45 gives a finer seam and a 4500m cone; Ticket 40/Tex 70 gives a heavier, stronger and more prominent seam on a 3000m cone.

Outdoor, marine and bonded polyester threads

Why Dabond is used outdoors

Outdoor seams face sunlight, moisture, mildew, movement, abrasion, cleaning chemicals and repeated flexing. Dabond's bonded continuous-filament polyester construction provides the UV, abrasion, bleach, mildew and rot resistance that general garment thread is not designed to deliver. Its bond and lubrication also help control the plies during demanding lockstitch and zigzag sewing.

Standard Dabond provides professional bonded-polyester performance in core production colours. The Dabond Outdoor listings are the outdoor-focused options with a wider marine and awning colour selection. Choose between them by the specified size, colour requirement, exposure and approved seam design.

Coats Dabond V69: strong seams with less bulk

Dabond V69 is Ticket 30/Tex 80, the lightest Dabond size in the current collection. It gives a finer seam than V92 or V138 while retaining bonded-polyester construction.

Best used for: outdoor furniture, compatible upholstery, canvas, covers, bags, sports goods and technical products that specify Tex 80 bonded polyester.

Why choose it: V69 is useful when an ordinary garment thread is not strong or weather-ready enough, but the seam does not need the bulk of V92 or V138.

Machine guidance: the current listing gives metric 120–140 as a guide. It is still industrial thread, despite being the lighter Dabond option.

Coats Dabond V92: the balanced marine and outdoor size

Dabond V92 is Ticket 25/Tex 105 bonded polyester. It is a widely useful middle weight for demanding outdoor and marine sewing.

Best used for: boat covers, sails, awning covers, awnings, canvas, bags, canopies, squabs and heavy upholstery.

Why choose it: V92 offers more seam strength and presence than V69 without stepping up to the much heavier V138.

Machine guidance: use compatible commercial or industrial equipment capable of feeding and tensioning Tex 105 bonded polyester. Do not assume that a domestic machine can accommodate the thread or cone.

Coats Dabond Outdoor V92: exposed seams with a broad outdoor palette

Dabond Outdoor V92 is also Ticket 25/Tex 105, but the current Direct Sewing listing offers 18 marine and outdoor shades. It is engineered for exposed work where both weather resistance and colour selection matter.

Best used for: boat covers, canopies, marine upholstery, awnings, shade products, outdoor sports equipment, squabs, canvas covers and suitable technical bags.

Why choose it: select the Outdoor range when the project is exposed and you need a colour developed for marine, awning or outdoor materials.

Important: water-resistant thread does not create a waterproof seam. Needle holes, seam design, fabric coatings, tension and sealing treatment all affect leakage.

Coats Dabond V138: heavy bonded polyester for substantial seams

Dabond V138 is Ticket 18/Tex 150. It creates a much more substantial seam than V92 and must be matched to appropriately capable equipment.

Best used for: suitable sails, boat covers, heavy canvas, awnings, awning covers, heavy upholstery, bartacks, straps and tie-down applications built to an approved specification.

Why choose it: V138 is the step up when the design needs more thread body and strength than V92.

Safety note: seatbelts, tie-downs, straps and other load-bearing products must never be designed from a thread description alone. Follow a validated product and seam specification.

Coats Dabond Outdoor V138: heavy outdoor and marine construction

Dabond Outdoor V138 combines the heavy Ticket 18/Tex 150 size with the colour range and environmental performance of the Outdoor family.

Best used for: suitable sails, shade structures, heavy canvas, covers, marine seating, awnings, heavy upholstery, straps and technical sewn products where Tex 150 is specified.

Why choose it: it is the outdoor-focused heavy option when V92 does not provide enough seam body and the machine is approved for Tex 150.

Machine guidance: expect a heavy industrial setup, suitable bobbin system, large enough needle eye, stable cone stand and carefully balanced upper and lower tension.

Coats Dabond V207: specialist heavy industrial thread

Dabond V207 is Ticket 12/Tex 240—the heaviest Dabond size in the current collection. It is a specialist product for serious industrial equipment and engineered seam requirements.

Best used for: approved heavy furniture and upholstery, sports goods and technical products where the full manufacturing specification explicitly calls for V207/Tex 240 bonded polyester.

Why choose it: choose V207 for a verified heavy-thread specification, not simply because it is the strongest-looking option on the page.

Machine guidance: Direct Sewing lists metric 160–200 as a guide. The machine manufacturer must approve the thread size, and the hook, bobbin, tension system, thread path and needle system all need adequate capacity.

Dabond sizes compared

Dabond size Relative weight Typical decision
V69 / Ticket 30 / Tex 80 Lighter industrial Choose for strength and weather resistance without a bulky seam
V92 / Ticket 25 / Tex 105 Medium-heavy Choose for general marine covers, awnings and heavy outdoor upholstery
V138 / Ticket 18 / Tex 150 Heavy Choose for substantial sails, shade, canvas and heavy seam designs
V207 / Ticket 12 / Tex 240 Very heavy specialist Choose only when approved equipment and the product specification require it

Waxed braid for hand sewing, lacing and cord work

Coats Classic 1.0mm: the most versatile waxed-braid size

Classic 1.0mm is a high-tenacity waxed polyester braid supplied on a 500m roll. It is substantial enough to create a visible seam while remaining more versatile than the heavier diameters.

Best used for: leather hand sewing, belts, bags, luggage, holsters, straps, saddlery, footwear, moccasins, upholstery repairs, visible hand seams, nautical lacing and suitable bone-carving necklaces or pendants.

Why choose it: it offers a useful balance between visual presence, hole size and handling for general heavy hand work.

Coats Classic 1.2mm: bold hand stitching and firm lacing

Classic 1.2mm is a heavier braid supplied on a 350m roll. It forms a bolder stitch and requires a larger needle eye and hole than the 1.0mm size.

Best used for: substantial leathercraft, saddlery, belts, luggage, footwear, moccasin seams, upholstery, decorative repairs, bold necklace cord and nautical hand lacing.

Why choose it: select 1.2mm when the seam needs more visual weight and firmer lacing without moving to the extra-heavy 1.6mm or 1.8mm options.

Coats Classic 1.6mm: pronounced lacing and substantial visible seams

Classic 1.6mm is an extra-heavy waxed braid supplied on a 350m roll. At this diameter, the seam or lacing becomes a deliberate design feature.

Best used for: thick leather goods, saddlery, footwear, coarse decorative seams, highly visible upholstery hand work, substantial pendants and compatible nautical or technical lacing.

Why choose it: use 1.6mm when the material has generous holes and the finished product calls for a pronounced cord line.

Coats Classic 1.8mm: maximum-impact hand lacing

Classic 1.8mm is the largest current Coats Classic size at Direct Sewing and is supplied on a 300m roll. It creates the boldest stitched or laced finish in the range.

Best used for: the most substantial leather, saddlery, footwear, decorative upholstery, coarse laced joins and cord work where the braid should be unmistakably visible.

Why choose it: choose 1.8mm for scale and appearance, not as a default upgrade. The material, hole and knot must all be large enough to accommodate it.

How to work with Coats Classic waxed braid

  • Use a strong large-eye leather, harness or saddler's needle that accepts the braid without crushing it.
  • Pre-punch consistent holes with an awl or stitching chisel when working with firm leather.
  • Confirm the braid passes through every hole before beginning the finished seam.
  • Cut with sharp scissors or a suitable knife for a clean end.
  • Pull each stitch firmly and evenly rather than jerking the braid.
  • Test colour transfer, wax behaviour, knot choice and finished appearance on the actual material.
  • Do not treat these products as ordinary domestic sewing-machine thread. Confirm specialist-machine compatibility before any machine use.

Specialist protective thread

Coats Firefly 50: flame- and heat-resistant meta-aramid thread

Firefly 50 is a specialist Ticket 50 thread made from 100% spun meta-aramid. Unlike ordinary polyester or nylon, meta-aramid is selected for protective applications that require resistance to heat, flame and electric arc exposure.

Best used for: specified flame-resistant and safety wear, firefighters' clothing, industrial workwear, military garments, industrial gloves, heat insulation and filtration products.

Why choose it: select Firefly when the approved product specification requires meta-aramid sewing thread and the seam must remain compatible with the protective performance of the surrounding materials.

Machine guidance: the current product page lists metric 90–120 needles and a 2500m cone. The final needle and seam setup depend on the protective material and approved manufacturing specification.

Critical safety note: using flame-resistant thread does not by itself make a garment or product certified, compliant or safe for a particular hazard. Every component and the complete finished assembly must meet the applicable standard and testing requirements.

How to choose the right Coats thread step by step

  1. Define the finished product. A shirt, denim jacket, car seat, boat cover, leather bag and protective garment all need different seam performance.
  2. Identify the main threat to the seam. Is the concern appearance, repeated washing, abrasion, UV exposure, mildew, heavy loading, flame or simply unobtrusive garment construction?
  3. Choose the construction. Staple spun polyester suits garments; corespun thread combines a filament core with a wrapped surface; bonded nylon suits many abrasion-heavy goods; bonded polyester suits outdoor work; waxed braid suits hand lacing; meta-aramid suits specified protective applications.
  4. Select the lightest size that meets the seam requirement. Excessively heavy thread adds bulk, enlarges needle holes and may exceed the machine's capacity.
  5. Confirm the entire machine system. Check the needle system and eye, thread path, tension range, hook clearance, bobbin capacity, feed system and cone stand.
  6. Choose the colour by shade code. Record the product family, size and exact shade reference; colour names alone are not reliable for reordering.
  7. Test the real material stack. Include seam intersections, folds, coatings, reinforcement and every layer the finished needle must penetrate.

What a proper test seam should tell you

  • Does the thread feed smoothly without fraying, untwisting or excessive heat?
  • Is the needle eye large enough without creating unnecessarily large holes?
  • Are upper, bobbin and looper tensions balanced?
  • Are there skipped stitches, puckering or loose loops?
  • Does the stitch length suit the thread diameter and material?
  • Does the seam remain balanced at bulky intersections and during reverse stitching?
  • Is the thread colour correct under the lighting in which the product will be used?
  • Does the final appearance match the design—subtle, defined, polished or deliberately bold?

Frequently asked questions about Coats thread

Which Coats thread is best for everyday sewing?

Astra 120 is the broad general-apparel starting point. Moon 120 is the economical option for everyday sewing and overlocking in core colours. EcoVerde Astra 120 adds recycled polyester content, while Dual Duty 120 provides a polyester core with a cotton-wrapped surface.

What is the difference between Astra 120, Astra 75 and Astra 30?

Astra 120/Tex 27 is fine everyday garment thread. Astra 75/Tex 40 is a medium-weight option for more defined seams and restrained topstitching. Astra 30/Tex 80 is a heavy apparel thread for jeans and prominent topstitching.

Should I use Terko Satin or Nylbond for upholstery?

Choose by the required construction and finish. Terko Satin is a poly-cotton corespun thread with a polished, lustrous surface. Nylbond is bonded Nylon 6.6 designed for abrasion resistance and hard-wearing products. The correct answer depends on the material, environment, seam design and machine.

Should I use Nylbond or Dabond outdoors?

Dabond's bonded polyester construction is the more natural starting point for exposed UV, marine and weather-facing applications. Nylbond's bonded nylon construction is highly abrasion-resistant and suits many leather, footwear, luggage, automotive and upholstery products. Always follow the approved product specification.

Which Dabond size should I choose?

V69/Tex 80 gives a finer industrial seam. V92/Tex 105 is the balanced marine and outdoor size. V138/Tex 150 is heavier for substantial sails, shade, canvas and upholstery. V207/Tex 240 is a specialist heavy size for approved industrial equipment and engineered seams.

Is Dabond waterproof?

No thread makes a seam waterproof on its own. Dabond is designed to resist demanding outdoor conditions, but water penetration also depends on the fabric, coating, needle holes, stitch, seam design, tension and sealing method.

Can I use industrial Coats thread on a domestic sewing machine?

Some domestic machines can handle fine Tex 24–27 cone thread and possibly selected Tex 40 thread with the correct needle and a separate cone stand. Heavy bonded, corespun or waxed products may exceed the machine's needle, hook, bobbin or tension capacity. Check the manual and test; do not force an incompatible setup.

What is the best Coats thread for hand sewing leather?

Coats Classic waxed braid is designed for controlled hand sewing and lacing. Choose 1.0mm for the most versatile substantial size, 1.2mm for bolder work, 1.6mm for pronounced lacing and 1.8mm for the largest, most visible construction.

Does Firefly thread make a garment flame resistant?

No. Firefly is a specialist meta-aramid sewing thread for specified protective applications, but a safe and compliant product depends on every material, seam and component plus the required testing and certification.

Shop Coats thread in New Zealand

The best thread is not automatically the strongest, thickest or most expensive option. It is the thread whose fibre, construction, weight, finish and environmental performance match the work the seam must do—and whose size your equipment can sew correctly.

Explore the complete Coats thread collection →

The Direct Sewing range includes thread for general sewing, overlocking, garments, denim, blind hems, upholstery, leatherwork, luggage, footwear, outdoor canvas, marine projects, heavy industrial seams, hand lacing and specialist protective applications.

If you are still unsure, contact Direct Sewing with the fabric or material, number of layers, machine model, needle system, intended use and the thread size you are considering. That information makes it much easier to narrow the range to the correct starting point.

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