What is the Difference Between an Overlocker and Coverseam Sewing Machine?

What is the Difference Between an Overlocker and Coverseam Sewing Machine?

July 31, 2025

If you’ve ever wondered why the inside of your T-shirt feels smooth against your ribs and the bottom hem looks like neat rows of stitches on the outside, you’ve already experienced the work of two specialist sewing machines: the overlocker and the coverseam. While they may look similar, they do very different jobs.

What is an Overlocker?

The overlocker (also known as a serger) is responsible for the stitching you feel on the inside wall of your T-shirt, against your ribs. It trims the fabric edge and wraps it in thread so it doesn’t fray, leaving a soft, strong finish.

An overlocker is essential for:

  • Joining and finishing seams in one step

  • Creating stretchy seams that move with the body

  • Preventing fabric edges from unravelling

  • Giving garments that clean, ready-to-wear feel

It uses multiple threads (usually 3–5) and loopers to create the strong “looped” finish you see inside most shop-bought clothes.

What is a Coverseam Machine?

The coverseam machine (also called a coverstitch) is what gives you that professional hem at the bottom of your T-shirt. On the outside, you see two (or three) neat parallel rows of stitching. On the inside, the looper thread covers the raw edge with a flexible stitch that stretches with the fabric.

A coverseam machine is ideal for:

  • Hemming T-shirts, leggings, and activewear

  • Necklines, sleeve hems, and waistbands

  • Decorative stretch topstitching

  • Preventing hems from popping when stretched

In short: overlocker = seam finishing inside your garment, coverseam = visible hem finish outside your garment.

Why Thread Quality Matters

Both overlockers and coverseamers rely heavily on loopers and multiple threads. Using poor-quality thread is one of the fastest ways to run into tension issues, snapping, and skipped stitches.

We recommend:

  • Madeira Aeroflock – soft, textured fluffy thread perfect for loopers. It gives a stretchy, secure finish, making it ideal for activewear and knits.

  • Madeira Aerolock – strong and durable, perfect for needle threads. It ensures clean, precise stitches that hold through repeated washing.

Good thread not only improves your stitch quality but also keeps your machine running smoothly and your garments lasting longer.

Recommended Overlockers

Recommended Coverseam Machines

  • Janome CoverPro 3000 – A precision coverstitch machine for professional results.

  • Brother CV3550 – Versatile with both coverstitch and chain stitch options.

  • Juki MCS-1500 – Robust, industrial-quality hemming for stretch fabrics.

Do You Need Both?

If you want your sewing to look truly professional:

  • The overlocker takes care of the seams inside your garment (like the ones brushing against your ribs).

  • The coverseam perfects the hems and finishes you see on the outside (like the bottom of your T-shirt).

Many sewists eventually invest in both, as they complement each other and together create that high-quality, store-bought finish.