The Benefits of Polycotton Thread: Why Sewers, Quilters & Bag Makers Love It
Polycotton thread is one of the most versatile and best-performing threads in the sewing world. Made by spinning a polyester core with a cotton wrap, it combines the strength of polyester with the softness and finish of cotton — giving you the best of both worlds. It’s no wonder it’s loved by quilters, dressmakers, bag makers, and even fibre artists who like to dye their threads.
Whether you’re sewing fine garments or heavy canvas, Amann Rasant and Coats Terko Satin threads offer premium options for both domestic and industrial sewing machines.
What Makes Polycotton Thread So Special
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Strength & Durability: The polyester core adds extra tensile strength, meaning less breakage even at high speeds.
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Natural Look & Feel: The cotton wrap gives a smooth, matte finish that blends beautifully into natural fabrics.
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Low Lint: Quality brands like Amann and Coats use advanced spinning methods for cleaner stitching and reduced lint build-up in your machine.
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Excellent Dyeability: Because of the cotton outer layer, polycotton threads like Rasant can be dyed for creative or custom colour projects.
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Minimal Shrinkage: The polyester core resists shrinking, making it perfect for washable or frequently used items.
Why Amann Rasant 120 Is Loved for Dyeing
One of the standout features of Amann Rasant 120 is its cotton outer wrap. While the inner polyester core provides strength and stability, the natural cotton surface readily absorbs dye — just like a pure cotton fabric would. This allows makers to achieve beautifully rich, even colours when dyeing, without compromising thread performance.
Because the polyester core remains unaffected by the dye, the result is a slightly lustrous thread with incredible colour depth and fade resistance. The cotton takes on the dye, while the polyester ensures the strength and integrity of the thread remain intact.
For this reason, Amann Rasant 120 has been trusted in New Zealand’s film and costume industry for decades, particularly by studios and professional dyers who need threads that can match or blend seamlessly with hand-dyed costumes and fabrics. Whether it’s historical garments, theatre costumes, or hand-dyed quilting projects, Rasant 120 gives a consistent, professional finish.
Best for: Dressmaking, quilting, lightweight bags, overlocking, and custom-dyed textile work.
Machine Type: Domestic or industrial sewing machines.
Amann Rasant 75 — Strong, Smooth, and Perfect for Upholstery
When you need a thread that balances strength with softness, Rasant 75 is the ideal middle-heavy option. It has the same polyester-core/cotton-wrap construction as Rasant 120 but with a thicker build for greater durability and stitch definition.
Rasant 75 is a favourite among upholsterers, bag makers, and leather crafters who want a professional matte finish without the stiffness of bonded threads. The cotton outer still allows for beautiful dye results, making it perfect for custom colour projects in film, theatre, or bespoke leatherwork.
Best for: Upholstery, leather apparel, cushions, canvas work, and decorative stitching.
Machine Type: Industrial plain-sew, shuffle-foot or walking-foot machines.
Coats Terko Satin 36
A medium-heavy core-spun thread designed for strong seams and decorative topstitching. Terko Satin 36 features a cotton wrap for heat resistance and a smooth matte finish — ideal for visible stitching on denim, canvas, and upholstery fabrics.
Best for: Leatherwork, upholstery, heavy denim, and bag construction.
Machine Type: Industrial walking-foot or heavy-duty plainsewers.
Coats Terko Satin 25
One of the strongest in the Coats range, this thick thread offers incredible strength and a bold stitch definition. Use it where your seams need to be seen.
Best for: Decorative stitching, outdoor gear, and heavy canvas or leather.
Machine Type: Industrial heavy-duty machines only.
Rasant Oxella 35
This premium thread from Amann’s Oxella line is built for medium-to-heavy fabrics that demand durability. It keeps your seams strong while maintaining a soft hand feel, ideal for artisan bag makers and upholstery professionals.
Best for: Bags, seat covers, leather goods, and heavy garments.
Machine Type: Industrial walking-foot or compound-feed machines.
Rasant Oxella 25
The heavyweight champion of the polycotton family. Its thick composition provides high abrasion resistance and beautiful stitch visibility, perfect for outdoor gear and structured accessories.
Best for: Heavy canvas, tarps, saddlery, and decorative topstitching.
Machine Type: Industrial only — not suitable for domestic use.
Application Guide — Choosing the Right Thread Thickness
| Thread Type | Approx. Tex | Common Use | Fabric Weight | Machine |
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| Rasant 120 / Terko Satin 50 | Tex 25–30 | Dressmaking, quilting | Light–medium | Domestic / Industrial |
| Rasant 75 | Tex 40–45 | Upholstery, leather, heavier garments | Medium–heavy | Industrial |
| Rasant 35 / Terko Satin 36 | Tex 60 | Bags, denim, upholstery | Medium–heavy | Industrial / Walking foot |
| Rasant 25 / Terko Satin 25 | Tex 80+ | Leather, canvas, decorative seams | Heavy | Industrial only |
Why Choose Amann or Coats Polycotton Thread
Both Amann and Coats are world-renowned brands that have perfected core-spun thread manufacturing. Their threads offer excellent performance in both high-speed industrial machines and domestic models, with consistent tension, reduced lint, and outstanding colour fastness.
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Amann Rasant: German-engineered quality with superior dye uptake and smooth finish.
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Coats Terko Satin: Trusted by professionals worldwide for durable, stylish seams.
By stocking both, Direct Sewing Machines & Supplies ensures you always have the perfect match for your next project.
FAQ — Polycotton Thread in NZ
1. Can I use polycotton thread for quilting?
Yes — Amann Rasant 120 is ideal for piecing and quilting. It gives a soft finish without bulk and holds up well under high stitch speeds.
2. What’s the difference between Rasant 120, 75 and Oxella?
Rasant 120 is fine for garments and quilting, Rasant 75 is a medium-heavy option for upholstery and leather, and Oxella 25/35 are heavy-duty for structured or industrial use.
3. Can I dye polycotton thread?
Yes. The cotton wrap of Rasant threads absorbs dye beautifully while the polyester core stays stable. This gives vibrant, even colour with extra strength. It’s one reason professional costumiers and film studios choose Rasant 120 and 75 — they dye evenly and withstand washing and wear.
4. Does it work in overlockers and coverstitch machines?
Yes. Rasant 120 performs perfectly in overlockers and coverstitch machines due to its low lint and consistent tension control.
5. How do I choose the right thickness?
Use finer threads (120) for clothing and quilting, Rasant 75 or Terko Satin 36 for bags and upholstery, and heavy (25) for structured or outdoor projects.
Final Thoughts
Polycotton thread is a powerhouse in the sewing world — strong, smooth, and versatile enough for nearly every project. Whether you’re piecing a quilt, sewing denim, crafting leather goods, or dyeing threads for film and costume work, the Amann Rasant and Coats Terko Satin ranges deliver professional results every time.
Explore the full range of premium polycotton threads at Direct Sewing Machines & Supplies and discover why NZ’s sewing community swears by these trusted brands.
